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All the things I love about the pancakes atnear the Greenpoint waterfront in Brooklyn, are things that normal chefs would try to fix.
They are a little too tall and too big around.
The outside is nearly black in parts, and crunchy, which American pancakes almost never are.
Each one is the size of Frisbee because too many people are waiting for breakfast for any space in the pan to be wasted.
My quantity of butter would seem insane in a professional kitchen, so it would be cut.
The batter would probably be thinned to make the pancakes shorter and more elegantly rounded.
Rounding out the rough edges is, in a broad sense, one of the main things chefs do.
They may not always do it consciously, any more than a copy editor consciously corrects typos.
At weekend brunch, they are on virtually every table.
Image Under celery leaves and shaved celery stalks is kedgeree, the Anglo-Indian dish of curried rice and fish — in this case, cod.
Daniel Krieger for The New York Times Mr.
Their healthy disregard for refinement spills over to the dinner menu, which recently expanded to seven nights a week from five, just as the restaurant is approaching its first birthday.
To start, you might smear a gob of chicken liver pâté on a tangy slice of miche charred over the grill, or some head cheese, a spreadable pink composite of meat not quite held fafala slots by drippy pork goo.
The most rustic thing you can eat there at night, though, has to be the fafala slots steak carved out of a pork shoulder, rubbed with mustard and maple syrup, and striped with wide, dark grill marks.
Smeared over the top is a salsa verde made from fresh parsley and other herbs that were whole about three or four slashes of a knife ago.
Stewed Puy lentils spill across the rest of the plate.
It is hard to say exactly what kind of food Chez Fafala slots Tante serves, apart from the consistently good kind.
A collection of brown chairs and black tables on a black floor in an undecorated white room, fafala slots is as austere as a Shaker chapel, fafala slots one with a long, well-populated bar against the wall.
No hints are forthcoming from the cocktail list, either, which plays it close to the vest with daiquiris, Negronis, Cosmopolitans and so on.
Raised in Vancouver, British Columbia, he cooked at in Montreal under Martin Picard, the grinning scoutmaster of the hungry-camper fafala slots, before moving to New York to work at the berserk Québécois outpost M.
Wells, in Long Island City, Queens.
Leiber a few years later when they worked together at in SoHo.
The name Chez Ma Tante was borrowed from a stainless-steel slot of a place in Montreal known for its steamé, a steamed hot dog in a steamed bun.
Apart from that more info a recurring maple motif — the jugs of syrup on a shelf outside the kitchen are not just for show — the Québécois influence is minimal.
A minor British theme seems undeniable.
First off, the French fries are unmistakably English chips: twice-fried wedges that are steamy and starchy on the inside.
It is, essentially, white rice dyed yellow with curry powder and mixed with hard-cooked egg and flaked cod.
A fair amount of butter seems to be involved.
On top is a crunchy salad of celery stalks and leaves.
How did falafel, fried fafala slots a crackle and served over hummus and harissa with pickle wheels, get here?
Not sure, but it is a great improvement over most of the vegetarian options you meet around town.
Salads, too, are better than usual: shavings of kohlrabi and apples imbued with lemon; roasted almonds and raisins over white shreds of stracciatella cheese; a Caesar whose romaine leaves are small and tender, and whose croutons are closer to slots lil lady crumbs.
The night ends with straightforward bistro desserts.
Maple returns one more time in a crème brûlée; its torched sugar crust is repeated, in a lighter form, on the surface of a lemon tart wedge; the tarte Tatin is classic, although the caramel one night was a little more bitter than it needed to be.
Because this is Greenpoint, the vodka is Polish.
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All this week, The Takeout staff writer Kate Bernot is attempting to turn her favorite dishes into soup.
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